Im August/September 2009 verbrachten Toni Lamprecht, Uli Strunz und Benno Wagner mehrere Wochen in der Verdonschlucht, um den fantastischen Kalkwänden Südfrankreichs eine wunderschöne Erstbegehung abzuringen. Das Resultat: „Le Vieux et la mer", mit 7 Seillängen bis zum 10. Grad eine der anspruchsvollsten und besten Erstbegehungen vom „alten Fuchs" Toni:
„Hat man einmal eine Route im Sektor „Ula" geklettert, so kommt man nicht umhin, rechts davon immer wieder mit staunenden Augen den glatten, vielleicht spektakulärsten Pfeiler der gesamten Schlucht zu bewundern. Bald schon ist man gedanklich gefangen - auf der Suche nach kletterbaren Linien. 2008 dann einmal richtig abgeseilt - und da konnte ich meinen Augen kaum glauben. Im Slalom durch leistiges Gelände ist da was möglich. Ein absolutes Wunder!
above: Chris Sharma during the first ascent of Golpe de Estada, 9b at Siurana, Spain
When it comes to sport climbing, the energy center of the universe without a doubt is located in Spain! Here you find stories, videos and photos of noteworthy ascents.
David Graham grew up in Portland, Maine, in the northeast of the United States. He started climbing when he was 14 and instantly became addicted. As a talent, Dave turned heads immediately and began influencing the climbing community at a young age. By the age of 16 he was working as a professional rock climber, and planning his world travels. At the age of 18, he began to travel to Europe and Asia, learn to speak other languages, and climb the hardest existing routes in the world. Now 26 years old, Dave has most of the last 8 years been living and climbing mostly throughout Europe. After 10 years of redefining the limits within rock climbing, traveling the world, and speaking foreign tongues, Dave nowadays is more excited than ever to push his own personal limits and share his thoughts. I interviewed Dave in Ceuze for "Die 2te Lizenz zum Klettern DVD", read on for the German translation!
Indonesia's island of Bali is mainly known for its surfing. Especially on the Bukhit peninsula you find some of the worlds most epic surfspots in close proximity. We also came here mainly to surf, but while approaching some of the spots like Uluwatu or Padang Padang, my Boulderers mind keeps telling me "wait a moment, there is actually some really good rock here!"
In summer 2006 Toni Lamprecht bolted a line next to the ugly bolt ladder in the ninth pitch of "Les Marches du Temps" in the Verdon. Weather was very bad at this time of the year, but easter 2007 he and Uli Strunz had no problems with the now 8a pitch. They did the whole route without falls. Les Marches du Temps is another great free Verdon route with lots of exposed and challenging pitches. Udini filmed Uli and Toni during the process of finding the line, cleaning and bolting and, well, finally climbing it for the upcoming "2nd Licence to climb" DVD. Also we started a Verdon Gallery here, with photos shot during our stays. Here is what Toni has to say about their ascent (in German):
Climbing
